Lure Identifier: Tackle Coach

Photograph any lure and get your next cast: what it is, how to retrieve it, how deep it runs, where to throw it, and what to tie on when it stops working.

Lure Identifier: Tackle Coach tells you what a fishing lure is—and, more importantly, how to fish it.

Most lures have no writing on them, so "what brand is this?" is usually the wrong question. The useful answer is the one that changes your next cast: how to work it, how deep it runs, where to throw it, and what to tie on when it stops producing.

●Identify the lure from a photo Take a picture with your camera or pick one from your library. You get the lure type made specific—Squarebill Crankbait, Suspending Jerkbait, Hollow Body Frog, Tandem Colorado Spinnerbait—along with the visible details behind the call: lip shape and angle, line-tie position, blade type, hook setup, body profile.

●How to fish it, step by step The retrieve in plain language: technique (steady, stop-and-go, jerk-pause, walk-the-dog, lift-and-drop, hop, burn and more), speed, rod position, pause length, and a cadence you can follow literally. Then three to five numbered steps from the cast onward, including what the bite actually feels like.

●Where and when to throw it Running depth in feet, placed on a water-column diagram (surface, shallow, mid, deep, bottom). The seasons this lure is genuinely best, the water clarity and water type it suits, and concrete places to cast—riprap banks, laydowns, weed edges, boat docks, main-lake points.

●Gear and the mistakes to skip Rod, line, and rig you can act on: "7ft medium, moderate action", "12-15 lb fluorocarbon", "5/0 offset worm hook, Texas rigged". Plus the specific errors beginners make with that exact lure, and the bites they cost.

●Target species and what to switch to Which fish the lure was built for and which it will still catch—bass, trout, walleye, pike and muskie, panfish, salmon, catfish, and saltwater. Then two or three alternative lures, each with the condition for reaching for it: too deep for this one, too weedy for exposed trebles, following without committing.

●Brand and value, only with evidence A brand is named only when letters are actually readable on the lure, and the app says which it is. Vintage clues—wooden bodies, glass eyes, cup-and-screw hardware, aged lacquer—are called out, and a price range appears only when comparable lures are genuinely for sale right now. No invented numbers.

●Build your tackle box Save lures to a collection measured by depth coverage instead of dollar value: the number that tells you what to buy next. Every scan is kept in history, and any result can be shared as a card.

●Great for ・New anglers: working out what came in the starter kit and how to use it ・Inherited and secondhand tackle: garage sales, flea markets, a grandfather's tackle box ・Bass fishing: crankbaits, jigs, soft plastics, spinnerbaits, topwater, swimbaits ・Trout, walleye, pike, panfish, salmon, and inshore saltwater ・Unfamiliar water: deciding what to tie on first at a new lake, river, or jetty

●Notes & accuracy Results are AI estimates and may be inaccurate. They are not a guarantee of lure type, brand, model, age, authenticity, or value, and any price range is indicative only, not an appraisal. Fishing guidance here is general and cannot know your local conditions. Always check the rules for the water you are fishing—permitted lures, hook and barb restrictions, licenses, and seasons—before you cast.

●Subscription A paid subscription is required to use the app and access its core features. You can cancel anytime in your Apple ID account settings.

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